Thanks for purchasing a brand new dyno tuned RPR engine.
The following information is provided to ensure that your 100% brand new engine is installed correctly and that both the initial startup and maintenance is properly understood to ensure that your engine runs smoothly for many years to come.
Please remember that a healthy engine relies upon regular maintenance.
The following assumes that you have purchased a complete RPR Turnkey engine with the RPR Dyno tune option.
Please note that all of our Turnkey engines are supplied with a 200mm 12 volt flywheel and will NOT fit a 6 volt vehicle without modifications to the bellhousing. Please talk to Rod for additional information!
When you receive your engine, it will be neatly and securely wrapped in plastic and strapped to a pallet for shipping. It is important that you remember that the engine weighs at least 80 kgs and that you will need a forklift to lift the pallet and the engine.
Prior to shipping, your engine has already been run in, Dyno tuned to ensure that the carburetor settings and jetting is correct and properly serviced. In addiition, it is very important to remember that the OIL HAS BEEN DRAINED FROM THE ENGINE CASE!
As part of your shipment, you may also receive an additional box that will contain your spec sheet, dyno report and any extra parts you need for the installation into your vehicle. The Dyno report will contain important information such as jet sizes and timing settings.
When either you or your mechanic have installed your engine you will need to double check that the carburetor linkage is adjusted correctly and that both throttle arms are syncronised to ensure that they open simultaneously. As your engine has been Dyno tuned, the carburetor's tune is perfect and should not need to be touched.
Please note that most Kombi engines can be fitted with the carburetors, manifolds and linkages still mounted to the engine.
It is very important to remember that I have shipped your new engine WITHOUT OIL so you will need to use a good quality brand named 20W/50 grade of mineral oil....do not use a synthetic or part synthetic oil. In the past I have used brands such as Mobil, Castrol, Shell, Penrite and Gulf Western. I don’t have a personal preference to a particular brand, rather the viscosity (20W/50) is the crucial aspect.
As part of the service I have also replaced the oil filter with a new filter. These filters are a 3/4" thread and will be compatible with most early model Toyota's and Fords.
Please double check all oil line connections and ensure that all hose clamps are tight especially if you have been supplied with an external oil filter or oil cooler.
The next thing to do is to fill your new engine with fresh oil. Do not over fill it and remember that the standard Type 1 engine case WITHOUT an oil filter takes 2.5 litres of oil. If your engine has been supplied with an oil filter then you should remove it and fill it with oil. Remember to smear a bit of oil on the rubber gasket/O ring to prevent sticking.
Once you have confirmed that you have enough oil in the engine, start it and let the engine idle until the oil light goes out. Normally this will be around 5-6 seconds for this to happen. If the oil light does not go out then turn the engine off and check the oil level again.
Once you have check everything and the oil light is going out correctly, this confirms you have created a complete system for the oil pressure and the safe running for your engine.
After about 15 seconds of idling or gentle revving at below 2000 rpm's, turn off the engine and check the oil level and top up until you are on you highest mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill the crankcase with extra oil. If for some reason you do overfill it, simple drain the excess out via the sump plug. Remember that if you are near to the top mark (notch) on the dipstick it doesn't take very much oil to overfill. It is also usual to top up the oil if you have added a brand new external oil cooler.
When you confirm oil pressure your engine is all good to drive.
There are no special driving restrictions necessary as your new engine has been tuned and is good to use in normal driving conditions until the next service at 5000 km's or sooner. It is very important that you do not "over rev" the engine when it is cold as this may cause the supplied oil filter or oil lines to fail due to the oil temperature not being at operating temperature.
I suggest you take the vehicle for a test drive of 20 or 30 kms and then give it one last check.
Service Intervals - will be at 5000 kms intervals (or sooner if you like) which will consist of an oil change, oil filter replacement, valve adjustments and I would even think about changing the spark plugs (check the detailed invoice you were provided as it will have the part number of the sparks plugs that were installed in your engine). Thoroughly perform a nut, bolt and screw check around the entire engine and tinware as it is not unusual for tinware screws to work loose. If you keep your checks and servicing regular you will have years of trouble free driving.
Please feel free to either call or email me should you have any further questions.
Enjoy your new engine!